THE LOWDOWN

Set in 17 acres of stunning parkland, close to Howden and Goole in East Yorkshire, the Georgian Grade II listed Hall is at of a sweeping drive. First impressions are of a grand, honey-hued building with an ornate front door, now the symbol of this luxurious but friendly hotel.

From 1067 right up until the 1970s, the Saltmarshe Estate remained in the same family, although the present Hall was built around 1825. Kate and Roland Whyte moved to Saltmarshe in 2012 and are only the third family in 900 years to own the Hall. It’s quite a responsibility caring for so much history, but they have lovingly restored the property with style and elegance, retaining traditional features, but enhancing contemporary comfort and charm.

THE VIBE

CHRISTMAS TREE SALTMARHSE HALL YORKSHIRE

Entering the front door into the hallway is immediately welcoming and especially festive at this time of year with a Christmas tree by the garlanded fireplace and an impressive silver stag head candelabra. Diane was the softly spoken, Scottish-accented, chatty receptionist with a bubbly personality and warm greeting for our dog Seth as much as ourselves. She instantly made us feel relaxed and at home.

The interior design will make you swoon, blending heritage and modern luxe details that enhance the period features Think on trend paint shades, statement lighting and a mix of antiques with modern art and furniture. The Christmas decs are also stunning and just what’s required to put even the grisliest Grinch in holiday mood.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Arriving late afternoon after a wet and windy journey battered by Storm Darragh, we took solace in the bar, gliding past more impressive Christmas trees in the high-ceilinged hallway with its cascading modern chandelier and sweeping staircase. A cocktail was in order to calm our storm-battered nerves (medicinal obvs). I liked the sound of the signature Saltmarshe cocktail with rhubarb gin, ginger beer, and prosecco, but the Rose Limoncello caught my eye, a refreshing mix of the Italian liqueur, rose prosecco and lemonade (£13.50). Simon’s choice of a Guinness (£7) was entertaining as I hadn’t seen the new Microdraught dispenser in action before to pour the perfect pint.

Perched on bar stools, we took in the garden views, the cigar list (almost extinct nowadays) and chatted to the young bar staff as well as occasional guests coming to order drinks for the private birthday party next door. Feeling peckish, I regretted perhaps not having pre-ordered a cream or festive afternoon tea or even one of the legendary Sunday lunches, but wanted to save ourselves for dinner.

There had been a discussion about where we wanted to have our evening meal as dogs are only allowed in the library, not the main dining room. Rather than having to eat there alone, a handful of other hotel guests joined us – a couple of whom were very eager to meet Seth having left their seven whippets and 11 horses at home! It was a lovely, atmospheric room with deep blue walls and matching bookshelves, a roaring log fire, Christmas tree, leather sofas and rows upon rows of books – handily in reach if your dinner companion turned out to be boring!

First things first, we selected a bottle of chilled Chilean Viognier called Vine Trail which was VG just as it said on the label and at £27, one of the more affordable bottles which stretched to Louis Roederer Cristal Brut at £500 a pop. I also liked the idea of a half-bottle of fizz, but then, who was I trying to kid?

Duck with boozy prunes starter Saltmarshe Hall

The tempting menu made it hard to choose, but suddenly feeling Christmassy for the first time (mid-December), most likely inspired by the Christmas tree-shaped folded napkin and reindeer candle holder, I opted for the smoked duck (£15), delicious with boozy prunes, crispy spinach and soft, spicy croutons that tasted as mouth-watering as gingerbread – unusual, but freshly festive. Being so close to fishing villages, husband Simon chose white crab on a salad of mussels which he also enjoyed (£16).

My ballotine of turkey main course (£28) with Parma ham, cranberry and seasonal veg was in keeping with the wintery theme and it was very, very tasty – even the Brussels sprouts, which I’d normally roll round my plate or surreptitiously feed to the dog! I knew Simon would go for one of his favourites – braised ox cheek (£35) as it’s not something we would ever attempt to cook and he wasn’t disappointed.

The £39pp allowance given to hotel guests for Dinner, Bed & Breakfast had already been blown in two courses, but with food this good, we weren’t going to miss out on dessert. Our friendly waitress Libby approved of my indulgent dark chocolate and espresso delice with mascarpone, (£11) while Simon’s choice sounded suspiciously like mince pies – sweet filo parcels with mincemeat and clementine. OK, so they were very moreish and oozing opulence (£10). Having gone the whole hog, there was nothing else for it but to relax in front of the crackling fire with after-dinner coffees (the Saltmarshe Hall front door logo sprinkled on my cappuccino) and the whole library by this time to ourselves – even though the party next door was still going strong.

We were up bright and breezy (unlike the party goers), so after an early-morning walk of the grounds, including the walled garden with outdoor pool and a riverside trail, we were one of the first at breakfast (which begins week days at 7.30am). We chose to dine in the Dining Room with its lovely fireplace and sash windows overlooking the grounds and River Ouse. Our waitress (originally from Keighley) brought much-needed coffee while we were invited to help ourselves to juice.

We both really enjoyed our natural yoghurt with winter berry compote and crunchy honey and fennel granola. We were also intrigued to try our sourdough toast with monkey butter (pineapple, coconut and banana flavoured) which tasted pleasantly sweet. Then, in a vain attempt to control at least some calorie intake, I had the ‘small’ cooked breakfast with ‘just’ sausage, bacon, tomato and scrambled egg, while Simon went full English, though only to get the black pudding and beans (he says). Vegetarian options were also available as well as a detailed menu for dietary guidance.

PILLOW TALK

Yorkshire Suite Saltmarshe Hall Yorkshire — Yorkshire Suite

The 14 bedrooms of various shapes and sizes are named after surrounding villages and towns and there are two self-catering properties: Gardener’s Cottage and Saltmarshe Stables. The Yorkshire Suite is the one you’d want to book for a honeymoon or special anniversary, with its own snug and gorgeous free-standing bath overlooking the parkland.

Dog friendly room at Saltmarshe Hall Yorkshire

We were in Reedness, one of three dog-friendly rooms in the converted former ground-floor servant’s wing, with a handy separate door to the gardens should Seth require a sharp exit. Our welcome treats included a hospitality tray with delicious shortbread biscuits and a special Sunday Roast kibble dinner for Seth, which, of course, he didn’t take long to polish off!

The king-sized bed was comfy with a thick, warm duvet and it was a good-sized room with an armchair, fireplace, coffee table and spacious wardrobe. We had a dual aspect over the parkland and overflow car park with EV charging, although had to shut the curtains tightly to keep out the security light which flashed on whenever anyone walked by.

The ensuite bathroom was gorgeous – an old fireplace was quirkily still in situ, but there was a large, walk-in rainfall shower with luxury, L’Occitane refillable toiletries and large, soft fluffy towels which could be warmed on the heated towel rail. Simon was very impressed by the demisting mirror at just the right height for him to shave, while I had to stand on my tiptoes trying to apply make-up!

ACCESSIBILITY

Our Reedness room also doubles as the only accessible ground-floor bedroom with a side entrance for wheelchair access. A chair can also be supplied for the shower.

KID FRIENDLY?

There is so much outdoor space to run around in which children will adore, but no playground. One of the cottages sleeps six, so perfect for families, while cots or Z-beds can be provided and kids menus or half portions are available. Children are undoubtedly welcomed, but the house feels more suited to adults.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Saltmarshe Hall gets a five waggy-tail rating from Seth who felt completely at ease and loved all the attention he received from staff and guests as well as exploring the extensive grounds. There are three pet-friendly rooms at an extra charge of £15 per dog per night (but bring your own bowls, bed, towels and poo bags). Doggy meals can be pre-ordered and your pooch can accompany their owners to the library and bar.

WEDDINGS

A popular wedding venue (the photos alone would be stunning), celebrations range from an intimate service for two to exclusive use of the Hall. All the reception rooms are officially licensed for weddings or you can even choose an outdoor ceremony (perhaps not on the windswept day we arrived), while there is a dedicated team of planners to help.

POOL PARTIES

Couple by swimming pool, Saltmarshe Hall

Sadly no spa or gym, but there is a heated outdoor swimming pool, usually open from April till October, although it can be made available for wild swimmers (if brave enough) and for private parties in summertime. The hotel’s reception rooms can also be reserved for special celebrations, while there are business suite facilities and meeting rooms.

OUT & ABOUT

We enjoyed our visit to the nearby town of Beverley with its impressive Minster, racecourse, green common ideal for dog walking and independent shops, although sadly the Christmas market had been cancelled due to the atrocious weather. Saltmarshe Delph Nature Reserve and Blacktoft Sands RSPB Reserve are nearby for wildlife and birdwatching, the Yorkshire Wolds for walking and cycling, while the Yorkshire coast, Leeds, Hull and York are all within easy striking distance by both car and train.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

We loved Saltmarshe Hall and what made our stay so special was the friendliness of the small, close-knit team dedicated to enhancing the guests’ enjoyment. The stunning location is another huge plus, just minutes from the M62 with beautiful views and grounds to explore as well as an excellent train service from Howden to London and nationwide.

Good for: Romantic getaways and intimate weddings. Think cocktails by the fire and curling up with a good book after a bracing countryside walk.

Not for: Spa lovers, gym bunnies, city dwellers or young families as the Hall is a grown-up retreat in the heart of rural East Yorkshire.

The damage: B&B rates start from £140; Dinner, Bed & Breakfast from £240 per room. The hotel is especially festive but is closed on Christmas Day. There is a Boxing Day Retreat package starting at £375 pp for a two-night stay, complete with delectable dining, exquisite drinks and relaxed ambiance. A Girls Getaway package from £156.50 pp includes B&B as well as an afternoon tea with a glass of bubbles and complimentary use of the pool in summertime.

Saltmarshe Hall, Howden. East Yorkshire, DN14 7RX. Email or tel +44 1430 434920.

Words: Bridget McGrouther

Review: Saltmarshe Hall in Howden, East Yorkshire

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